Fridge Repair Edmonton, AB

We Repair Edmonton Refrigerators – The Right Way

Appliance Repair Team in Edmonton — Refrigerator Repair Team in Edmonton

If your refrigerator needs repair in Edmonton – contact John H Appliance Repairs. We know how to help you. Experts are ready to consult you in detail by phone. Do not hesitate to ask them questions.

Our skilled professional technicians will arrive within 24 hours after receiving your request, or on any other day chosen by you. All repairs and new parts installed are under warranty for up to 1 year, this also includes our 100% satisfaction guarantee.

By the same phone, you can also reach out to us for any comments and suggestions on our work. Our team is Fully Licensed, Insured & Bonded.

How to request a service call?

You can make a request for repair by calling: (587) 418-4440 or by filling out the online form on the website. For scheduling the appointment? —> click here. When contacting us, please provide the following information:

Make and, if possible, model your Fridge, the model number you usually will find on the door of the fridge. For example, Whirlpool GS53314W or Bosch SPV 40E10. Help – How to Find the Model and Serial Number Location of All Household Appliances Check The Video – Location Model And Serial.
Signs of breakage. For example, the fridge is not getting cold.
The most convenient time for the technician to arrive.
Your name, address, and the best phone number to reach you at.

The more you describe your problem, the better the technician will prepare for the repair – he will bring the necessary parts and all other tools needed.

John H Appliance Repair – Edmonton
Fridge Repair Edmonton Service
Established Company – Journeyman Certified Technician
Edmonton Fridge Repair (587) 418-4440
For scheduling the appointment? —> click here

John Journeyman Appliance Repair Technician

Hey guys John here from John H. Appliance Repair and for those of you that don’t know, I work on appliances for a living, I’m gonna go over the top 10 most common fridge problems, in the last two years I’ve worked on a lot of refrigerators, old really old, new all kinds of stuff and every call, I went to, I briefly logged it so the reason why, I was there and what I did to fix it out of all those logs, I came up with a list like this of the top 10 fridge problems, I categorized them all, and how many times, I encountered each problem so there was a total of 381 fridge calls and 51 different problems, so for the top 10 problems I’m gonna take a little bit more time explaining them and what causes them as for the other 41 problems those, I’m just gonna go briefly over all of them at the end of the Page as honorable mentions there’s a lot of problems to cover so without further delay let’s just get started. Fridge Repair Edmonton (587) 418-4440. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply or Reliable Parts and type in your model number find your part on the easy to read diagrams and match it to the number below.

Top 6 reasons why your refrigerator won’t start?

Top 3 Reasons Why You Refrigerator ice Maker is Not Making Ice?

Top 7 reasons why your refrigerator is making noise?

Top 8 reasons why your refrigerator is leaking?

Refrigerator need to do some regular Maintenance:

Click Here —> How To Clean Refrigerator Coils in 5 Steps – GE, Whirlpool, Maytag, LG, Kenmore, Samsung, and more.

1. Top 6 reasons why your refrigerator won’t start & Fixes – Kenmore, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, GE & others

Before we begin we’re going to make sure the appliance is unplugged or the circuit breakers are off so there’s no chance of electrocution also make sure you turn off the water supply underneath the sink.

1a.) First thing we’re going to check is the run capacitor, it’s what helps the compressor run after it starts

The run capacitor is a device that supplies extra energy to the compressor to allow it to run as efficiently as possible, it supplies a boost anytime the compressor is running, if it’s failed the compressor may start up, but it could draw a higher than normal amperage and cause the compressor overload to kick in and shut the compressor down, some older refrigerators will have a start capacitor that stores electricity and releases it when the compressor needs to start, but then shuts off once the compressor is up to speed, capacitors are usually located behind the access panel at the back of the refrigerator , but some are located behind the main control board access panel, if your refrigerator seems like it’s not starting it could be that the run or start capacitor has failed and the compressor isn’t getting enough electricity to start or to continue running, once you have access to it depending upon the style you can simply pull it off the start device or use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the wires, then take it out of the fridge to inspect and test.

1b.) Refrigerator Regular Capacitor

If it has any swelling or looks like it’s been leaking, then the capacitor is bad and needs to be replaced, if it looks okay then we’ll have to grab the multimeter and test, it so set your meter to ohms our meter automatically detects whatever ohms are coming in, but you may need to set your meter to read the proper ohm level, before testing we need to discharge the capacitor, remove the wires and using an insulated screwdriver lay the shaft across the terminals, be careful not to touch the metal part of the screwdriver as you do this, then touch a probe to each terminal, the ohm’s reading should go up and then drop back down, then reverse the probes and test it again it should do the same thing, if the reading doesn’t change for either one the capacitor has failed. Check The Video – Test The Start Relay, Overload, Capacitor, PTC Thermistor. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

1c.) If you have a metal capacitor

You’ll also need to check to see if it’s shorted to the casing, so touch a probe to one of the terminals, and the other one to the casing, then move the probe to the other terminal, if you get a reading for either one that means the capacitor is shorted out if any of the tests fail then the capacitor is bad and needs to be replaced if you need to order a part simply go Amre Supply and type in your model number find your part. Check The Video – Test The Start Relay, Overload, Capacitor, PTC Thermistor. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts

1d.) Next we’ll look at the cold control it’s the control you set the refrigerator temperature with.

Cold controls have been used for many years, they have a shaft for the knob to mount on a sensor bulb that senses the temperature and a body which has the contacts inside of it most also have two wire terminals, they’re usually located on the control panel mounted right behind the control knob, if your refrigerator won’t start it could be that the cold control is bad, the contacts inside the cold control are open and closed by the pressure created in the sensor bulb, as the refrigerator gets warmer and colder, the fluid in the sensor bulb expands and contracts, if you notice that the compressor isn’t coming on and the fridge is getting warm it could be that the contacts inside are stuck, as a simple test while the refrigerator is running you can try knocking on the area around the knob to see if that will break contacts free, if it works and the refrigerator starts cooling again that’s a good indication that the contacts are sticking together and the cold control needs to be replaced, if it didn’t work make sure to unplug the fridge again before you move on, in order to test the cold control you’ll have to open the control section and remove the wires depending upon the design you may have to remove the knob and screws to get to the wires, in order to see if the part can carry an electric current we have to test it with a multimeter set to continuity, once you have it set touch the probes together to make sure it’s working, you want to make sure the cold control is in the off position, then touch a probe to each terminal, it should not have continuity in the off position, then turn the control on, it should have continuity when you have it in the on position, if the control fails the continuity test it’ll have to be replaced, the last part of the control to check is the sensor bulb, over time they can rub against something or just fail and start leaking, if you see any damage or indications of oily residue along the bulb or where it mounts to the body of the control then it’ll have to be replaced, Check The Video – How to test the Thermostat. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts

1e.) Now we need to look at the defrost timer it controls the defrost cycle of the refrigerator.

The defrost timer is made up of a motor gears and contacts, it switches the refrigerator between the cooling and defrost cycles and helps keep the evaporator free of ice buildup, they have a set number of hours for cooling and minutes of defrost, as an example this one will run for 8 hours and defrost for 30 minutes, defrost timers are usually mounted in the control section of the refrigerator, but on older models they may be behind the kick panel, if your refrigerator compressor won’t start it could be that the gears or motor inside the defrost timer have failed while in defrost mode preventing the compressor from starting again at the end of the cycle, in order to check and see if the timer motor is advancing, you can mark the shaft of the timer, and then check later to see if it’s moved, if if it didn’t then the motor or gears have failed and the defrost timer will have to be replaced, if you think the motor or gears failed while it was in defrost you can temporarily turn the power back on, then manually advance the time rod at defrost , if the compressor starts up then you’ll know the motor gears did fail and you’ll have to replace it, the other way it could have failed is that the contacts inside the timer have gone bad and they’re no longer sending power to the compressor, to test this turn the center shaft all the way around again, if the contacts are bad the compressor will never come on and you won’t hear it shut down for the defrost cycle, if you determine that the contacts have failed you’ll have to replace the timer, once you’re done make sure you unplug the refrigerator again before you move on. Check The Video – How to Test your Defrost Timer. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts

1f.) Next thing to check is the start relay it sends power to the start and run windings of the compressor

Start relays have been used for many years they send power to the start and run windings of the compressor and then cut the power to the start windings once the compressor gets up to speed, compressors are usually located in the back behind the access panel and the start relay is usually mounted on the side of it on the pins, it may or may not have a cover on it, if your refrigerator won’t start it could be a bad start relay, a lot of times you’ll hear a clicking noise coming from the relay if it’s failed, in order to inspect, it you’ll have to remove the cover if you have one, then use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the wires and pull the relay off the compressor pins.Check The Video – Test The Start Relay, Overload, Capacitor, PTC Thermistor. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts

Refrigerator type of relay with the coil on top

If you have the type of relay with the coil on top they have a plunger in them so they’ll rattle some, the other types of relays may have a very small rattle as the discs move around but there should be no loud rattling, also check for a burnt smell a melted body or any small particles falling out as you shake, it if the relay has any of these physical signs of damage you’ll have to replace, it if you’re still not sure the start really is bad then we’ll have to test it for continuity.If you have the older style relay with the coil on it you’ll want to test it with the coil pointed up, stick a probe into each pin hole on the relay it should have continuity like .053, but if you turn it over it should lose contouring.Check The Video – Test The Start Relay, Overload, Capacitor, PTC Thermistor. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts

On the newer style relays you don’t have to worry about its position, just stick the probes in the pin holes on the back, it should have continuity if the start relay fails any of the continuity tests it’ll have to be replaced, on rare occasions the disc inside the relay may have failed in such a way that it gives you a false positive or continuity but won’t allow the compressor to start, if you think that’s the case you want to verify that the relay is getting power, usually you can hear it clicking so you know it’s getting power then you want to check your compressor windings to see if the compressor is bad, this is only for the older style compressors, they use a relay or start device not the inverter, or linear styles.Check The Video – Test The Start Relay, Overload, Capacitor, PTC Thermistor. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts

First we need to check to make sure the windings haven’t shorter to ground, so set your meter to continuity again, we want to touch one probe to a spot on the compressor that’s clean, and not painted then touch the other probe to each of the three pins, no pins should have continuity, if any have continuity the winding is shorted to ground and the compressor is bad, for this test we need to set our meter to ohms we need to test the compressor windings to see if any are bad usually the pins that are side by side are the start and run windings and the upper or lower pin whichever you have is the common pin as you do the tests you should write down the ohms readings, first we’re going to touch a probe to the common pin and the other one to the left pin, write that reading down, then move the probe from the left pin to the right pin, and write down that reading, then take the probe off the common pin and test the left and right pins, write down that reading , now i add up the two smaller readings, it should be equal to the larger reading, due to all the variables it may not be exactly the same but it should be close, if the readings are way off then the compressor is bad, if you have power to the relay and the compressor is good then the relay or overload device is bad even though it originally tested good. Check The Video – How to Test the Compressor on your Refrigerator. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts

1g.) The last thing you check is the main control board it sends power to the compressor

The main control board collects all the data from all the sensors and switches of the refrigerator and controls the various functions including the compressor, they’re usually mounted behind the control section in the refrigerator the dispenser control or on the back wall of the unit behind an access panel, if the refrigerator compressor won’t start it could be that a relay has failed and power isn’t being sent to the compressor during a cooling cycle, due to all the different designs out there, we can’t show you how to test them all here, you’ll have to get the tech sheet for your model and run the diagnostics, in this example you’d have to use the compressor condenser fan test, your sheet may call it something else, but if the board fails to test it’ll have to be replaced. Check The Video – Not Cooling – How to Replace the Compressor Relay. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts

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2. Top 7 reasons why your refrigerator is making noise

2a.) The first thing we need to look at is the evaporator fan motor it turns the fan blade to circulate cold air throughout the unit.

There are many different styles of the evaporator fan motors, but they all work the same way, there are small electric motors with a shaft that rotates a fan blade to circulate their air, on most models the evaporator fan motor is located in the freezer by the evaporator, but on some of the newer models with evaporators in both the freezer and fresh food sections they can be located in both places, constant exposure to cold temperatures and moisture, slowly destroys the motor bearings, if you hear a squeaking noise coming from behind the back panel of wherever it’s located the motor may be going bad, once you verify that the noise is coming from the motor, you’ll have to change it out. and test it again it should do the same thing, if the reading doesn’t change for either one the capacitor has failed. Check The Video – How to Test the Evaporator Fan in your Refrigerator. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts

2b.) Next, we need to look at the condenser fan motor it cools the compressor and condenser coils during operation.

Condenser fan motors come in a few different styles but they all work the same way, a small electric motor spins a shaft with a fan blade on the end to force cool air over the compressor and condenser coils to keep them cool, they’re usually located in the back of the machine behind the access panel, due to its location the condenser fan motor is exposed to constant heat and dust that eventually covers the motor, this causes the motor to overheat and wear out the bearings causing a squeaking noise if you determine that the noise is coming from the motor you’ll need to replace. Check The Video – How to replace the Condenser Fan Motor. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts

2c.) Now we’re gonna check the evaporator motor fan blade.

Which circulates cold air through the unit evaporator motor fan blades are low key on the end of the evaporator motor shaft, they simply press onto the motor shaft, but some also have a locking collar, evaporator motor fan blades can be found in the freezer section, but some newer models may also have them in the fresh food section, a lot of times a noisy fan blade can be caused by something getting in the way like a piece of ice, insulation or even a wrapper, other times it may have cracked, or had a broken blade, causing it to wobble and vibrate, it’s rare but sometimes a blade can work its way down the shaft and scrape against the motor,, if that happens you’ll have to inspect the mounting hole to see if it’s wrong it’s out if it’s not you can try to reposition the fan blade and see if it works, once you have access to it inspect the fan blade if it’s damaged in any way you’ll have to get a new one. Check The Video – Haw to repair the noisy dryer. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts

2d.) Next, we’re gonna look at the condenser motor fan blade.

That circulates air to cool the compressor and condenser coils, there are many different styles of condenser motor fan blades, depending upon the style, it could be pressed onto the motor shaft or held down by a nut or screws, they’re located behind the rear access panel and mounted on the condenser motor shaft, if you’re hearing noise coming from that area there could be something obstructing it they’ll have to remove, it could also be that the mounting hole is rounded out or a blade is cracked causing it to wobble and vibrate, it may also have slid down the shaft and come in contact with the motor, if you see any damage you’ll need to change it out. . Check The Video – How To: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Condenser Motor Fan Blade W10156818 . If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

2e.) Now we need to inspect the door closure cams

It’s what the door rides on when it opens and closes, door closure cams come in various designs, they’re usually made out of plastic and have an upper and lower cam, they provide a smooth surface for the door to ride on and help it stay open and closed if your refrigerator has them, the lower one is usually mounted on the lower door hinge and the upper one is mounted on the door, if you’re hearing a plastic on plastic grinding noise when opening or closing the door, could be that your door closure cams have failed, check to see if there’s any damage or wear, but chances are if they’re making noise at least one of them has gone bad, sometimes they’re sold individually or as a set but it’s recommended that you change both on at the same time because you don’t want to mix an old part with a new one.. Check The Video – How To replace : Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Refrigerator Door Closure Cam WPW10257203. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

2f.) Next thing to check is the water inlet valve it control water going into the refrigerator

water inlet valves have solenoids that open and close to send water to the ice maker and dispenser, they’re usually located at the back of the machine behind the access panel, but some can be found inside the fresh food section, if your water inlet valve is making a louder unusual noise when you use the dispenser or when the ice maker fills, it could be due to a damaged solenoid, jammed plunger or a clog in the valve, first temporarily turn the water and power back on, always make sure the valves are all the way open, otherwise it may affect the pressure, also make sure you’re getting the correct psi to the refrigerator, low water pressure can cause the valve not to work properly and make noise, to test it we’re first gonna put a towel down to catch any water that may come out, and then disconnect the water lines for both the ice maker and the dispenser, testing it with our water lines will help us determine if the valves bad, or if you have a blockage in the fridge, then grab a container that you can put underneath the valve to catch the water that’s gonna come out during testing, if your valves been making noise when you dispense water all you have to do is press the dispenser lever and listen for any noise coming from the valve, if it’s been making noise during the ice maker fill cycle, you’ll have to let the ice maker goes through a fill cycle while listening to the valve most ice makers have a test feature that allows you to make it fill, we can’t show them all so check your manual to see how to advance, it if the inlet valve is not making noise with the water lines disconnected, it means that there’s an obstruction in the refrigerator such as a clogged filter or a frozen water line that’s creating pressure in the system, if that’s the case you’ll need to clear the obstruction, if the valve is making noise it means that the water inlet valve has gone bad and will need to be replaced. Check The Video – Refrigerator Not Making Ice? Inlet Valve Test, Troubleshooting. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

2g.) Last thing to look at is the compressor it pumps the refrigerant around the sealed system

The compressor works as a pump to control the pressure and circulation of the refrigerant through the system, it’s contained within the metal body of the compressor, it also has copper tubing that connects it to the system, and it usually has four rubber grommets that help absorb vibration during operation, they’re located in the rear of the refrigerator behind the access panel, first thing you want to check is that the condenser fan motor that cools the compressor and condenser coil is working, and that the condenser coil is clean, because the compressor is overheating, it can cause it to operate louder than normal, if one or more of the grommets fail, it could cause noise when the compressor starts or stops, so inspect them and replace any that are bad, if those are both fine but the compressor is still making noise it could be that the compressor is failing internally, once it completely fails, you’ll have to call a technician who’s qualified to change the compressor and recharge the system. Check The Video – How to Test the Compressor on your Refrigerator. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

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3. Top 3 reasons why your refrigerator’s ice maker is not making ice.

2a.) The first thing we need to look at is the ice maker it’s where the ice is made inside the refrigerator.

there are several different styles of ice makers the most popular kinds are the Halfmoon style in the Flex tray style they both work the same way they have a control section that controls the cycles of the ice maker, and a tray where the ice is made, ice makers can be located in several different places, depending upon your style of refrigerator, usually they’re mounted in the freezer, but on some models it can be located in the fresh food section, there are a few things to check before we can start troubleshooting, it first the ice maker are must be in the down position or the switch must be in the opposition, then make sure the freezer is set below ten degrees Fahrenheit, check your manual to verify the temperature required for the ice maker to work, usually it’s ten degrees Fahrenheit the freezer should actually be set to around zero degrees Fahrenheit for maximum ice production, if your freezer is a little warm you can check the condenser coils, if they’re dirty the freezer will run warmer than normal, if there’s no apparent reason why it’s too warm you may have to check out the freezer to warm troubleshooting page, also check to make sure the house water pressure is good, the system needs a certain pressure to work properly, check your manual to determine what your fridge requires, if it’s too low water may not be able to reach the ice maker, if the ice maker isn’t making any ice it could be that it’s failed, most common things to fail are the mold thermostat, the gears or the motor and switches inside the control module, if any of these have failed the ice maker will stop making ice, usually when it fails the ice maker has had an age we’re changing how the whole thing might be the best choice, but if you want to troubleshoot further depending upon your design you may be able to buy the individual pieces, there have been many different styles of ice makers used over the years, here are two very popular ice makers like we mentioned before this is theconstant exposure to cold temperatures and moisture, slowly destroys the motor bearings, if you hear a squeaking noise coming from behind the back panel of wherever it’s located the motor may be going bad, once you verify that the noise is coming from the motor, you’ll have to change it out. and test it again it should do the same thing, if the reading doesn’t change for either one the capacitor has failed. Check The Video – Haw to repair the noisy dryer. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

2b.) Halfmoon style

You have the ice maker control which has the shut-off contacts drive motor and the gear, the mold thermostat and the mold heater, are on the ice mold itself, we’re gonna show you how to test the popular whirlpool design, there are other ice makers that look similar but they have their own testing procedures, we’re gonna use a multimeter to test the parts, so we’re gonna set our meter to ohms, our meter automatically detects whatever ohms are coming in but you may need to set your meter to read the proper ohm level, first remove the cover then to test the mold heater stick a probe into the holes marked l and H it should read around 72 ohms, then to check the motor stick the probes into the L and M holes the meter should read between forty four hundred and eighty eight hundred ohms, stick the probes into the V and n holes to check the external water valve solenoid, it should read around three hundred ohms, remember any of the readings can be a little off one way or another but if they’re completely off or you’re not getting a reading at all the part will need to be replaced, finally to check the mold thermostat we need to see if it has continuity, we’re not looking for a specific value here just to see if the meter gets a reading, so stick the probes into the T and H holes measure the thermostat when it’s below 15 degrees Fahrenheit it should have continuity when it’s cold, if it doesn’t then it needs to be replaced , then let the thermostat warm up so it’s above 15 degrees , if you don’t want to unplug the freezer to let it warm up, you may want to take the ice maker out in order to test, it once it warms up it should no longer have continuity, if it does that means it’s failed and you’ll need to replace. Check The Video – How to Troubleshooting a No-Ice Complaint and Testing-Replacing. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

2c.) Flex race style

Flex race style is made up of the control head, the thermistor, and the tray, the head controls the ice maker and the thermistor tells the head what the temperature the tray is at, if any of them have failed the ice maker won’t make ice, first check the temperature of the area where the thermistor is located then set your meter ohms, and touch a probe to each of the leads for the thermistor, and see what it reads, check your tech sheet for the temperature and ohms reading chart, for example ours says the thermistor should be 56 21 ohms at 71 point six degrees Fahrenheit which is right in the line with our reading, if you don’t get any reading where it’s not close to what’s shown on the chart then the thermistor is bad it needs to be replaced, if the ice ray is damaged not holding water the ice maker can’t make ice and the Train needs to be replaced, a lot of the newer style ice makers both flex tray and Half Moon have a test procedure to determine if the ice maker is bad, there’s usually a test button or a small hole where you insert a paperclip to start the procedure, if you have a test button usually press and hold it for a few seconds to start the test, there are a few different designs out there so check your manual or a look on the ice maker itself, if the ice maker doesn’t pass the test procedures it’s more than likely failed and will need to be replaced. Check The Video – Haw to Troubleshooting ice maker. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

2d.) Next thing to check is the water inlet valve it controls the water going into the refrigerator

Refrigerator Water inlet valves - solenoids — Refrigerator Water inlet valves – solenoids

Water inlet valves have solenoids that open and close to send water to the ice maker and dispenser, they’re usually located at the back of the machine behind the access panel, but some can be found inside the fresh food section, if your water inlet valve is failed it’s possible that no water is getting to the ice maker prevents ice from being made, this could be caused by a bad solenoid jammed plunger or clogging the valve , during the test cycle of your ice maker may have determined that the water valve is bad needs to be changed, if not we’ll have to test the ice maker solenoid to see if it’s failed, in order to see if the part and carry an electric we have to test it with a multimeter set the continuity, once you have it set touch the probes together to make sure it’s working, once you have access to the valve the ice maker solenoid is usually the one that the ice maker water supply line is connected to, then remove the wiring harness, and touch a probe to each terminal, the meter should show continuity, if you don’t get a reading then its failed and you’ll need to replace the valve. Check The Video – Refrigerator Not Making Ice? Inlet Valve Test, Troubleshooting. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

2e.) Another thing to look at if the ice maker is not making ice is the ice maker fill tube.

There’s a link that tubing on the back of the unit the water flows down to fill up the ice maker, if it’s frozen up it usually means that the diaphragm inside the water valve has a small leak, and it’s slowly pushing water up the water supply line, this could block the water from getting to the ice maker preventing it from making ice if the diaphragm is leaking you’ll have to replace the water inlet valve. Check The Video – How To replace : Frigidaire/Electrolux Ice Maker Fill Tube Assembly 241850615. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

2f.) Next we need to check out the water filter assembly it filters the water as it comes into the fridge.

depending upon your design the water filter assembly is made up of a water filter and either a water filter head or a water filter housing, the assembly is usually located inside the fresh food section, or down by the kick panel, sometimes if the water filter is old, it can get clogged up and either reduce or stop the water flow to the ice maker and dispenser, if the head is damaged you’ll likely get no water flow at all, to check them you’ll have to temporarily turn the water and power back on then push the dispenser check the water flow, if it seems slow, try replacing the water filter to see if that fixes the problem, if not the check valve in the water filter housing may be stuck, most water filter heads have a check valve that turns the water off if it fails or the water filters removed, they usually have one or two pins that have to be pressed in as if the filter was there, if you have the pin style then you can put a towel down take the filter out, and use a couple small screwdrivers to press them in, then press the dispenser, if you don’t get any water flow then the check valve is bad and you’ll need to replace the water filter head, if you can’t access them or you don’t see the pins you’ll have to leave the good field therein and go around to the back of the refrigerator and disconnect the water filter return line, you want to put a towel or a bowl down to catch any water that may come out once you’re ready you can press the water dispenser in the door if you don’t get any water flow at the water filter return line then the filter head is broken and needs to be replaced. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

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Author: Yevgen Zayets