Washing Machine Repair Edmonton, AB

We Repair Washing Machine. The Right Way in Edmonton ab.

Appliance Repair Team in Edmonton — Washing Machine Repair Team in Edmonton

If your washing machine needs repair in Edmonton – contact John H Appliance Repairs. We know how to help you. Experts are ready to consult you in detail by phone. Do not hesitate to ask them questions.

Our skilled professional technicians will arrive within 24 hours after receiving your request, or on any other day chosen by you. All repairs and new parts installed are under warranty for up to 1 year, this also includes our 100% satisfaction guarantee.

By the same phone, you can also reach out to us for any comments and suggestions on our work. Our team is Fully Licensed, Insured & Bonded.

How to request a service call?

You can make a request for repair by calling: (587) 418-4440 or by filling out the online form on the website. For scheduling the appointment? —> click here. When contacting us, please provide the following information:

Make and, if possible, model your Washing Machine, the model number you usually will find on the door of the washer. For example, Whirlpool GS53314W or Bosch SPV 40E10. Help – Haw to Fiande Model and Serial Number Location of All Household Appliances Check The Video – Location Model And Serial.
Signs of breakage. For example, the washer is not draining Properly
The most convenient time for the technician to arrive.
Your name, address, and the best phone number to reach you at.

The more you describe your problem, the better the technician will prepare for the repair – he will bring the necessary parts and all other tools needed.

John H Appliance Repair – Edmonton
Washing Machine Repair Service in Edmonton
Established Company – Journeyman Certified Technician
Washing Machine Repair Edmonton (587) 418-4440
For scheduling the appointment? —> click here

John Journeyman Appliance Repair Technician

Hey guys John here from John H. Appliance Repair and for those of you that don’t know, I work on appliances for a living, and I always blog my calls and I briefly write why I was there and what I did to fix the problem, so I went over the last two years of my collections and, I looked up all my washer problems, and I compiled the list of all the washer problems, I came across in the last two, years and I categorized them all putting him into a top ten list which problems, I came across more often, I went through a total of 373 calls and out of those 373, there’s a total of 58 different problems that I ran across some were more frequent than others and others, I only came across once so, I’m gonna go over this list with you quick the top 10 washer problems and work on residential washers both top load and front load all different kind of brands, sometimes there’s laundry centers sometimes they’re stackable washers and dryers but for the most part they’re all very similar just residential washers that you would see in a normal household, so let’s go ahead and just jump right into our list and start with the champion who’s in first place and that is a broken lid switch, this only applies to the older washers and you’d be actually surprised how much old washers are still out there and I personally think there’s a good reason for that and that’s simply because older washers last about three times as long as the newer washers so there’s still a lot of old washers because they haven’t died yet, the new ones they get replaced a lot more frequent but anyways. Washing Machine Repair Edmonton (587) 418-4440. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply or Reliable Parts and type in your model number find your part on the easy-to-read diagrams and match it to the number below.

1 first place with 28 calls is a broken lid switch.

This is mainly on whirlpools and Kenmore’s, the old top-load washers with that big agitator in the tub and those washers, they have a little slot in the cabinet and you can depress the lid switch with your finger even or with a pen or something it’s a great looking paddle that you can press down and on top of the lid itself you have a striker, so what happens is you know when you close the lid the striker goes down and closes that lid switch and everything starts running, but if that lit switch is broken your machine will go into a final spin it might adjettade it might fill but it will not spend so in the last two years I replaced 28 of those lid switches it’s a really common problem, so if I come out to a house it’s a whirlpool or a Kenmore the old style and they’re telling you that it’s not spinning out their clothes it’s not draining, then I know that you know 50% chance it’s probably that lid switch that is bad and replacing those lid switches is pretty easy generally it only takes like 10 or 15 minutes to replace that lid switch, of course if you’ve done it before if you’re doing it for the first time you can look up a video on YouTube how to replace a lid switch and it’ll probably take you I don’t know half an hour 40 minutes at most I would think it’s not too bad. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Door lid Switch . If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

The second place is a bad transmission or a bad gearcase that one had 26 calls.

So I went on 26 calls, where the washer had a bad transmission and that’s a bad problem to have because generally, it costs anywhere from half the price to two-thirds of a price of a new washer, to replace a transmission, so it becomes a very expensive repair, generally if the transmission is bad people end up replacing the whole washer, so if your washer is giving you problems hopefully this is not the problem you’re having, there’s a couple of different symptoms that you could look for that will indicate a bad transmission one of them is loud grinding noises, when your unit is going into a spin if it sounds like it’s an airplane taking off it gets louder and louder it’s just horrendously loud a lot of times that means that transmission is going out, another thing to look for is if your clothes come out with grey spots on them, that means that transmission or the gear case is leaking oil out, most of the time, so if there’s this great sludgy stuff that’s typically a bad sign as well and one more thing that you could look for is you can pull the washer out and I don’t know if I mentioned this but the transmission what I’m talking about here this is mostly for top-load washers one more thing you could look for is you can pull the washer out from the wall and just tip it back and if you look at the floor if you see any oil leakage on the floor, that’s a bad sign and if you look at the cabinet of the washer from the inside, if you see like a oil ring like a oil splatter all the way around, that is a bad sign as well that means that transmission was leaking oil and without any oil in the transmission it’s not going to be long before that thing completely conks out, and replacing the transmission on a washer, is one of the hardest things you can replace on it, so it is a hard job it takes a long time sometimes it even takes two people , so if you’ve never worked with washers or appliances before if you have just a little bit experience, I would not recommend trying tackling a problem like that yourself if you do, try to replace that transmission, but if you do go with it there’s plenty of videos out there that show how to replace transmissions so those can help out as well. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Transmission. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

In third place (A) we have a two-way tie with 23 calls.

washer electronic control board — Washer Electronic Control Board

I’ll start with the first one and that is a bad machine control board, now not to be confused with the user interface board, the user interface is usually the one with the display on it with all the buttons and stuff typically the machine control board is going to be a different control board for example if you have a front mode washer you have the display up in front that would be the user interface typically the machine control board will be underneath the lid, somewhere on top here usually on the right or left side or sometimes in the back is where the machine control board will be and it’s exactly what it sounds like it controls the machine, so that’s the thing responsible for cycling through all of the different cycles in the washer, well when the machine should turn on when it should fill when, it should drain, when it should spin, all of that, so oftentimes what happens is the machine control board will go bad and the washer will agitate and it won’t spin, or it won’t agitate ,or it won’t fill it’ll just do weird different things and a lot of the door washers will actually realize that there’s a problem with that board themselves, the board’s I mean just like any other electronics they have little diodes and resistors and relays in them and all of that is subject to burnout at one point or another, those boards as you can see it’s in third place I’ve replaced quite a bit of the machine typically will realize that there’s something wrong with that board itself and I’ll throw out some Error Code that will tell you the board is bad and needs to be replaced as for error codes typically the error codes will be found there’s a manual the tech manual will be typically found underneath either the top lid or the bottom kick panel you could take it off and you can find a little booklet that will have all the codes in it and what they mean or it’ll be behind the panel in the front here, if you have a panel up on top a lot of times the little booklet is going to be in the back right here, but even easier than looking for that booklet and taking your machine apart is to simply go on google and type in whatever brand you have, so for example you could type in you know Samsung throwing f11 code and Google will tell you what that code means and a lot of times it’ll even have a little list of things you could do to try to fix that, so in total I replace 23 of those PCB Control board’s, and the other problem. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Electronic Control Board. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts

Third place (B) with 23 calls is a bad drain pump.

Now typically there’s primarily three reasons why I would replace a drain pump, the first one is one of the more common ones is where like a penny or a pin or some other solid debris will get through to the drain pump and it’ll wreck the impeller, you know the little blades on the fan that pushes the water out, so for example if a penny goes in there while that thing is spinning full speed it could break all those fins on the impeller and then that drain pump will just stop pushing any of the water out, so it’ll sound like it’s running but it’ll be doing absolutely nothing, the other problem is that, the motor is just electrically fried, so it’s getting power it’s getting 120 volts, but the motor is just sitting there and doing absolutely nothing, that could also mean that there’s something jammed in there though once again that penny scenario if there’s a penny lodged in the housing between the housing and the impeller it could be preventing it from spinning, and the third problem is that sometimes the drain pumps they just start to leak, so if it’s leaking water then of course the drain pump needs to be replaced, so after I replaced all of those drain pumps the laundry break is over. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Bake Igniter. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

Problem number four is very similar to problem number three and that is not a bad drain pump but a clogged drain pump filter that once had 21 calls.

Clogged Draine Pump Filter Washing Machine

mainly applies to the front load washers, sometimes the top load washers as well cleaning out a plugged filter on a top load washer there’s a lot more labor-intensive and a little bit more annoying to get to than the front load washers a lot of times the front load washers it’ll either be behind the bottom kick panel or it’ll just be visible right there right in front of the washer a little door in it you can pop open and the filter is right there that you can take out and clean, so the symptoms of this are very obvious when it comes time to drain the water out if you have a front motor you’re looking through the glass or maybe your clothes are sopping wet and it pops out with some error code for some drain issue, but basically it’ll either drain super slow or it won’t drain at all, it’ll just run run run run run for five ten minutes and then pop an error code out , so what this usually looks like for me is I’ll come out there and if I get lucky that customer took all the wet clothes out if not they’re still in there take out all the wet clothes and then I get a wet vac and I try to suck up as much of the water as I can from inside of the washer and after that if it’s a front load washer a lot of times that drain pump housing will have a little hose sticking out as well that’s actually a drain hose that has attached before the filter, so you can drain out most of the water in there by taking that little plug out of that hose and getting that water out sometimes I put a vacuum to it to help suck it out faster it drains really slowly, after I do that even after you suck it out from inside and from that little hose, when you take that drain filter out, it’s still you’re probably gonna have a lot of water just pour out, so for a long time I just deal with it you know I’ll put a wet back to it and I tried to take it out slowly put it back in take it out just catch as much water as I can or throw a towel under it but I have gotten smarter, what I do now is I pull the whole washer slightly out and then I tilt it towards the wall, that way all the water goes to the back of the tub and it’s not going to be in the drain pump, when you take that throughout so now I pretty much stay dry every time when I’m working on those clogged filters, because I pushed the washer back like that, I take it out and generally that filter is full off just all kinds of stuff, one time I saw filter with the lady was a hair stylist so she was getting tips and I kid you not the whole filter was just wrapped up in money like $1 bills $5 bills I think the biggest one was a 10 nothing bigger than that but it was all wrapped in money and then there was also some quarters in there some dyeing some pennies so the whole thing was just plugged with hair and money, so the house got him an interesting one and one more thing that I want to point out is customers that wash rubber back rugs, you know those rugs that have those rubber little dots underneath of them those really should not be washed, sometimes you know you might get away with it a couple times you’ll wash it and nothing happens but then there comes the time where it seems like literally all of that rubber backing just comes off and that rubber stuff is gonna be all over your washer all over the tub, inside of all your hoses it’s gonna completely clog your filter, it’s gonna be in your drain pump it could burn it out it just makes a mess, that’s why laundry centers you know the laundromats where you bring all your clothes and stuff they really don’t like those rugs either, because those rugs they tend to wreak PUMP on the Machine so once that drain filter is completely cleaned out put it back in I test it and you can just see the water go down real quick it’s a really nice feeling and once again the laundry break is over. You can look up a video on YouTube on how to replace Or clean drain pump Check The Video – Haw to Replace Bake Igniter. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

Fifth place we have a two-way tie both of them having 20 calls.

I’ll start with the first one first one, is a bad timer so I replaced 20 timers and this primarily it is only for an old washers or washers like the speed Queen that have the old-style plastic design even though they’re new, so the timers I mean for example my washer right here this has a timer it’s just a knob in the front you know that cycles through everything, the timer just slowly advances as it goes through its cycles, but in the back it’s like a big box that’s actually timer , so typically the symptoms of a bad timer, will be that either some of the cycles don’t work or the timer just simply stops advancing, that’s the most common one so you’ll put on some cycle and it’s just stuck in that place and it does not advance, I’ve had customers telling me that you know I turn on a cycle and four hours later I realize hey it’s still running, so it’ll not advance sometimes it won’t send power to something that it should, so you know it might look like a bad drain pump, but simply in the timer is not sending power through to it or it won’t agitate or do different problems like that and usually homeowners with washer problems they say it’s a bittersweet experience they can’t through their laundry that kind of makes, them mad but at the same time they’re pretty happy that they can’t do their laundry that is until I replaced a timer and then the laundry break is over. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Bake Igniter. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

And the other problem in 5 places with 20 calls is a bad door lock I replaced 20 calls.

mainly it’s the ones that are on the front load washers, but they can also go bad on the top load washers as well this is primarily for the newer washers that have door locks on them, so for example my top load washer it’s an old one that’s 15 years old, I don’t have a door lock, so as the cycle is running I can open the door and look at it it might stop but I can always open the door but the new machines you know once the door is locked and the unit is running, the lock keeps the door locked ,so you can’t actually open the door to take a look same with the front loaders, but most of the bad locks that I see aren’t on those front load machines,, so I’m gonna lock it but it will not release so no then the water is standing in there or your clothes are in there it’s done with its cycle but you can’t take anything out and the opposite problem is a little bit more rare but it does happen as well where the door lock will actually stay open and it will not close and the machine will realize that that the door lock is not closing and it will not allow the cycle to continue and I do want to mention though, that most of those front load washer machines they do have an emergency manual door lock release, so if your washer is stalking you can’t get the door open a lot of times you can either pop the top open or take the bottom cake panel off and if you reach it under or over to where the door lock is there should be a little plastic ring on a handle or a little plastic bar if you pull that ring that will manually open up that door, so that’s useful to know you know until you can get a new door lock assembly you can at least open it up manually. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Bake Igniter. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

Problem number 6 I replaced 19 door boots or door bellows.

Washing Machine Door Bellow — Washing Machine **Door Bellow**

This only applies to the front load washers , that the bellows is basically that big round gasket, that the door goes into and makes a seal so there’s no water pouring, out and sometimes you know that door gasket it’ll either give it a rip or a tear in it it’ll start to leak, but before we replace the gasket one thing that I like to do is look at the glass itself you know that goes into the gasket sometimes there’s some crud or some other buildup on that glass that is preventing it from making a good seal and that’s what causes the leak, so in that case you could just take a razor and scrub that stuff off and then close it and run it through another cycle and see if it leaks a lot of times that’s all it takes to stop that leak, but of course if it has a tear in it or a rip, then that the whole bellows needs to get replaced other times you know if for some reason they stuck a really big load in there or maybe there’s something with zippers or something metal that can snag the boot and that completely rips the boot off of the tub so of course when it’s all mangled up like that then the boot also needs to be replaced, another thing I look for is the spring that holds that door boot if it’s really rusty, then I like to replace that spring as well, replacing the door boot can be pretty involved it can be a tough job if you’ve never done it before and putting the spring back on can be a project and of itself too, sometimes it even takes two people to try to stretch that spring out to put it back on that door gasket, there’s a cool pair of pliers that they sell, if you work on washers on a regular basis and you don’t have those I would recommend getting them they’re, like the reverse pliers with notches in them and when you depress it it goes the opposite way and it helps keep that spring spread out you know until you get it in place and then you can back in but anyway let’s move on. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Door Bellow. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

Problem number 7 and 16 calls are bad suspension rods or bad shocks.

Washing Machine Replacement Suspension Rods — Washing Machine Replacement **Suspension Rods**

So this primarily affects top-load washers but, it can be a front load washer problem as well and an easy way to test if you have bad shocks or not, is you know if you have a top-load washer or even a front load you can reach in there and press on the tub the same way but with a top load washer you would press down on the tub or on the sides of the tub I have an agitator so I would just press down on the agitator press down on it and let go and that tub should only balance once maybe maximum twice as it goes back up, but if you press down on it and let go and your tub just keeps bouncing up and down, you know three four five times, then those suspension rods are probably shot and you do need to get them replaced, generally on top load washers and front load washers for that matter – there’s gonna be four of them one on each corner of the top and one of the symptoms that accompanies bad suspension rods is that the washer will start to bang around the sides as it goes into a spin, so because the suspension rods are weak they do not fully hold it in place, so the machine or the tub will start to bounce around the inside of the machine or the cabinet just bang bang, bang, bang maybe a big bang and oftentimes after it completely speeds up to full speed it will even itself out and stop banging but if you do hear that bang at any point of the spin cycle then there’s a good chance that’s the suspension rods that are causing. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Suspension Rods. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

Coming in an 8-place with 11 calls is a bad drive belt.

Drive Belt Replacement on Washing Machine

What I mean by the bad belt is it’s just ripped, I would come out to a house usually this is on older top-load washers you pull them out you tip them back and you see a ripped belt just laying on the floor with a bunch of rubber shards, typically you know you just replace the belt and everything works great, it’s very rare to see a ripped belt on a front load washer, on a front load washer the belt would be in the back, the only time do–the rip is if something else caused it so if the pulley was wobbly for some reason if it was and it was and the belt was riding on this edge of the pulley, maybe that cooked through it then it might rip but other than that the belts the front loaders they rarely ever rip or tear usually it’s the top loaders where that happens and of course in that case of the belt rips the washer will not educate or spin. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Drive Belt. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

All right moving on in 9th place we have also a two-way tie and this one’s kind of ironic both of these have 10 calls each.

Washing Machine Motor Electronic Control Board

One of them is a bad motor control board and the next one is a bad motor, right so the bad motor control board it’s just like it sounds like the motor control board is just there primarily to control the motor to send power to it in different speeds and you know to send power to agitate to spin low high medium and a lot of times I think it was frigidaires, I had quite a few frigidaires with bad motor control boards or m/c use they call them those things will be in the bottom of the washer, somewhere either on the left or the right side of the washer on the bottom so you do kind of have to take the washer apart to get to that control board and the symptoms of that are almost like a symptom of some of the other stuff you know where it’ll fill it’ll agitate but the washer will not spin out in fact a lot of times everything will work it’ll even drain the water out and then the drum will just twitch a little bit on front load washers mainly, the drum will twitch a little bit but it’ll never go into a final spin and if you have a newer washer a lot of times it will pop out a little error code which will tell you that there’s something wrong with that motor control board, after you replace it everything works good that motor control board generally it’s not too hard to replace in fact I find the motor control board often times easier to replace than the machine control board up on top so it’s not too difficult to access on the bottom a lot of the washers you know the whole front panel will come off where the kick panel will come off or a panel and the back of the washer will come off and you’re able to access it pretty easily there’s just a couple of plugs that you have to take off replace the board put the plugs into the new board and you’re good to go and I already mentioned this before but seriously on YouTube there’s videos on just about every single part on the washer nowadays how to replace everything step by step by step by step repair clinic has a ton of videos on that so for example if you type in how to replace MCU board on a Frigidaire washer, I’m sure there’s gonna be a ton of videos on just that alone how to replace the motor to time or everything so if you could at least narrow down what is causing your problem or if you have some error code, just take it from there and you could find a lot of resources that can help you fix your own washer, if you’re willing to do that by anyway .. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Bad Motor Control Board. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

The second one the ninth place is a bad motor.

the Motor is bad when you know when it’s getting power when it’s getting 120 volts and it does nothing, so oftentimes it’ll fail altogether it’ll not agitate or spin but I have seen some of the older washers where the motor fails just in the spin part, so it’ll agitate but it will not spin and oftentimes if you put your hand in the motor after it’s been idling for a while when it’s supposed to be spinning if you put your hand on the motor it’ll be super hot, so in that case, you would just need to replace that whole motor and the washer should be back up and running in no time. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Bad Motor. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

And the next one with nine calls is a bad fill valve.

That one’s pretty simple as well I mean the symptom is pretty obvious if you have a bad fill valve, that means the valve will not open and let any water in so when the washer is supposed to be filling it does not fill and to check it, you do have to have a meter or at least I guess you could try to listen to it and see if it’s humming if the valve is getting power, but it’s not opening and letting the water in then you know that the valve is bad, of course, you always want to double-check that the water is on to the hoses to the supply hoses before you make that conclusion. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Fill Valve. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

10th place with 9 calls is a bad clutch assembly.

The clutch is the thing that’s responsible for engaging the gear case or the transmission, so between agitating and if your machine has multiple spin speeds low spin, medium speed high speed that clutch is the one responsible for switching the gears and engaging that transmission if the clutch goes bad then your washer will have a problem with one of those cycles and what causes this is usually just time wear and tear the little teeth on the gears start to wear down a lot of times it also comes with a loud grinding noise as well when the transmission or the clutch is trying to switch the gears so if you hear noises like that then there is a chance that you have a bad clutch. Check The Video – Haw to Replace Washing Machine Clutch. If you need to order a part, simply go to Amre Supply – Reliable Parts.

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Author: Yevgen Zayets